Grass Seeds


At this time of year at Castle Vets we start to see a lot of patients (particularly dogs), with grass seeds and plant awns embedded in various parts of the body. This article will hopefully help raise awareness on this extremely painful problem.

During the summer months grasses and plants start to dry out and their barbed seeds begin to scatter. These can cause major problems for our dogs (and occasionally other pets), who often get these seeds caught in their paws, nostrils, ears, eyes and skin. The problem is that these seeds have ‘one-way’ barbs that allow the seed to work its way through the fur, in one direction only, and then into the skin of the animal. If they are not found and removed quickly, these seeds have been known to work their way through the skin and end up causing serious problems as they migrate further into the body.


Grass seed and plant awns cause serious problems for pets at this time of year

The most common places we see grass seeds or plant awns

Paws – The grass seed gets hooked into the fur, especially in the groves between the toes on top of the paw and the between the pads beneath the paw, and then starts making its way toward the skin. It can then penetrate the skin and burrow deeper into the tissue leaving a tract (narrow tunnel) behind. The first sign of this is usually persistent licking and/or nibbling between the toes or of the whole paw because the grass seed causes pain, discomfort, swelling, inflammation, lameness and infection.

Ears – Grass seeds that get caught in the ear hair can soon make their way down the ear canal and end up next to the very delicate ear drum. The signs of this are usually pawing of the ear, head shaking, rubbing the head/ear on the ground and also inflammation (redness) of the ear flap. If left the grass seed may penetrate the ear drum and cause worse problems,

Nose – Grass seeds are sometimes inhaled by the animal and then get lodged in the nasal passage. The signs of this are usually sneezing or snorting, pawing at the nose and some nasal discharge.

Other less common places can include the eyes where the seed causes irritation to the surrounding area or even penetrates the eye itself. Or the mouth where the seeds can get lodged in the gums or throat causing irritation, pain and discomfort. From here the seed could travel down into the body causing abscesses and damage to internal organs.


Seeds and awns in the paw, ear and nose

Removal of grass seeds and plant awns

If you are lucky you may find the seed as it is just starting to penetrate the skin. These can usually be pulled out gently with some tweezers and the wound can be bathed and treated with an antiseptic solution.

Once a grass seed has penetrated the skin the process becomes much more difficult. Because they are vegetable matter, grass seeds and awns will not show up on an X-ray and can be very difficult for the vet to locate; it is often like searching for the proverbial needle in a haystack!.
In most cases the patient will need a heavy sedation or a general anaesthetic before the vet can remove the seed because of the pain and inflammation caused.

When removing seeds from the ear canal the vet uses the otoscope to look down the ear canal and a pair of sterile crocodile forceps (pictured), which are narrow and long and have a grasping mechanism that can be used to remove the seed once it has been located.

For seeds in the paws and skin, the vet will again use the crocodile forceps by inserting them into the tract left by the seed as it entered the skin, unfortunately because the seed cannot be seen this is often a very frustrating procedure for the vet, and may require several attempts with several anaesthetics for the pet.


Crocodile forceps

Prevention is better than cure!

  • Be particularly vigilant at checking your pet’s coat for grass seeds, plant seeds and burs that may become entangled in the hair.
  • Daily grooming will help remove any attached seeds and help you check for any suspicious looking areas or wounds.
  • Keep hair around the feet, foot pads and ears trimmed short if possible, as this will help prevent grass seeds attaching.
  • Avoid walking in areas with long grasses during this time of year.
  • Don’t allow your dog to chew grasses that have seed heads on them.
  • If your pet is showing any signs of discomfort, such as licking, lameness, head shaking, excessive sneezing, coughing etc. or if you find a wound that you suspect could be from a seed take them to the vet as soon as possible. The quicker we can remove the seed, the less damage it will do.

How to choose the right pet and where to look

So, you have read our article on ‘Thinking Before You Get A Pet’ and have decided that you can afford a pet, you have the time and space and now is the right time to do it. Congratulations! But where do you start?

Choose the type or breed of pet that you want carefully 

Bengal Kitten2

Bengal cats can become destructive and sometimes aggressive, if they are left alone all day with nothing to do.

Think very carefully about things before you settle on a specific type or breed and make sure it is absolutely right for you; please make your decision based on the animal’s needs such as grooming, exercise, training, nutrition etc and what you can offer it, rather than on what the animal looks like.  For more information visit our Think before you get a new pet article.

I strongly urge you to get to know and spend time with adult animals of the breed/type you are interested in if possible, so that you know exactly what you are letting yourself in for! A good breeder / rescue centre can arrange this for you or if it is a dog you are looking for, you can meet up and chat with dog owners in the local park (I had to spend a total of 6 hours walking and working with adult Duck Tolling Retrievers, before I was even allowed to even view the litter of puppies I had gone to look at!) Obviously this may not be possible if you are looking for cross breeds, but if you know you are looking for a collie or labrador cross, you can certainly get to know a few adults.

dogue de bordeaux pup

Really cute and small now, but when he grows up he will be over 60 kg of muscle and need loads of exercise and mental stimulation to prevent unwanted behaviour problems

Great places to see adult animals and chat with their owners are at the annual Discover Dogs show, Crufts dog show  or the London Pet Show which also has plenty of cats and rabbits to look at too .

Some breeds of animals have inherited genetic problems and this should be researched before you get a pet as these problems can cost a lot of money to treat; for example hip dysplasia, heart disease, respiratory problems, eye problems and even dental problems. If you are buying from a breeder you should always ask if the parents have been tested for disease and problems associated with the breed. For common genetic problems and their tests in dogs visit The Kennel Club Breed Pages and for cats visit the Governing Council of Cat Fancy (GCCF) ; these pages list any hereditary and common health problems and give advice on what tests (if any) should be carried out on the parents.

Looking for and choosing your new pet

Before you get a new pet we recommend that you take your time to find and get to know a good breeder or if you are getting a pet from a rescue centre, try to get as much background information as you can from the staff about your potential new pet. Many animals are being bred purely for profit (‘farmed’) without care for their welfare, health or temperament and are usually passed on to a seller or dealer before being sold on to the public, or worse being taken from their mother at 5 weeks old (far too young) and imported illegally from outside the UK with no papers, vaccinations or parasite control before being passed on to a seller or dealer and sold on to the public! Not only does this have serious welfare implications for the poor puppies or kittens, it also poses a huge risk of disease and parasite transmission to dogs and cats in the UK.

Avoid buying pets from pet stores or any places that have many litters of pets for sale (this even applies to birds, reptiles, rabbits and other small mammals); it is worth paying a little extra to obtain an animal from someone who has put a lot of time and effort into ensuring the health and wellbeing of the parents and offspring. (More on this later)

Avoid buying puppies and dogs from field trial, sheep herding and working lines unless you are actually going to be working your dog yourself. Dogs that do a job such as working gun dogs, sheepdogs and even agility dogs have a very high drive to be doing things and be on the go for most of the time. Active Parents = Active Puppies. The nature of field trial and working lines means that they have been bred for many generations to work hard all day and have a high capacity to learn; this means that they will be a much more active and demanding dog than your average show line or pet bred dog,  which are intelligent and active without being overly demanding in their desire to be on the go quite so much.

Make sure you see the mother with her babies and check that she has been regularly vaccinated; cases of poor health and diseases such as Parvovirus in puppies and Flu in kittens obtained from unscrupulous breeders, are often seen in veterinary practices and very young animals have tragically died, leaving new owners distraught and heartbroken.

Never buy a pet on impulse. Leave and think about things overnight, or preferably for a few days.

Puppy farm

1. Rescue Centres

Adopting and unwanted animal is a wonderful thing to do and these places have lots of pets in need of new homes. A registered Rescue centre is a good place to start if you don’t want a registered pedigree animal, or you are looking for an older animal. They may visit your home and ask lots of questions to make sure you can provide a suitable home for your new pet and that you understand how to care for it correctly. There may be an adoption fee, but this usually includes the costs of vaccinations, parasite control and often neutering.

If possible, ask what history (if any) is known about the animal that you are interested in. Many rescue centres also do thorough assessments on the animals before they go up for adoption, so that they have a good idea of the animal’s personality.Battersea_Dogs_&_Cats_Home_logo

Some places to try are

2. Pedigree Breeders

Pedigree breeders are ideal if you are looking for a specific breed of pet. A good breeder may or may not do a home check, but they will always ask lots of questions to make sure you can provide a suitable home for your new pet. Do your research regarding the average cost of the breed you are interested in and any genetic/hereditary problems they may have. Expect to pay quite a lot for rarer breeds. The Kennel Club has a list of breed clubs and breeders for puppies and is a good place to start looking. They also have what is called the  Assured Breeder Scheme, which sets standards for breeders to adhere to.

When buying from a breeder you must always see the mother interacting with her litter.

The word pedigree can confuse some people so, for the purpose of this article, when we talk about a ‘pedigree’ animal we mean one that comes with a registration certificate – usually from the Kennel Club or The Governing Council Of The cat Fancy (GCCF) . A pedigree certificate usually expresses a standard of breeding and contains 5 or more generations and means that the animal could be shown and bred from, assuming the breeder has not put any restrictions in place.

Be aware that just because a breeder has cats or dogs registered appropriately or is on the Assured Breeder scheme, does not necessarily mean that they are good breeders; ask around for recommendations or join a few breed forums on the internet to get a good idea about the breed you are interested in and good breeders.

Having a pedigree certificate does not necessarily mean that the breeder is a good or responsible one, so be sure to follow our guides on choosing your pet. 


3. Hobby and Accidental Breeders

These may be owners who have decided to breed a one-off litter from their pet or their pet has had an accidental mating. Pure breeds (remember pedigrees come with a registration certificate) or crossbreds may be obtained from these breeders.  If the pets are crossbreeds you should try and find out what breeds the parents are so you will have an idea about how big your new pet may grow. You must always see the mother interacting with her litter.

Guidelines for visiting and choosing your pet

  • Always see the mother interacting with her litter – do not accept any excuses for the mother not being there. If you cannot see mum then walk away.. I cannot stress enough how important this is and if you want to know more about this please visit Pup Aid  , #wheresmum on twitter or C.A.R.I.A.D  (The only acceptable time that this is not an option is when you are getting an older pet or you are adopting an animal from a rescue centre)
  • Always visit the ‘breeders’ home to meet the litter – expect to have 2-3 visits as the animals get older before you take one home.  (even with a rescue centre you should visit a few times and get to know your potential new pet before he or she comes home).
  • Handle the litter (wash your hands before and after).
  • Check that the litter and mother are looking healthy and happy – no dirty bottoms, weepy eyes or sneezing.
  • In the case of puppies and kittens, are they happy to come over and interact with you? If they are all really shy and/or nervous of strangers, it is an indication that they may not have been well socialised or handled.
  • Ask about the type of food the youngsters will be weaned onto and what mum has been fed. If you are looking at large-breed dogs, check they are on a diet suitable for their size and growth rate to avoid problems of malnutrition.
  • Make sure the parents have been routinely vaccinated, flea treated and wormed. Ask to see the vaccination certificate. Check if the puppies or kittens have had regular worming (this can start from 1 week old).
  • Expect lots of probing questions from a breeder that cares about where the pets are going to and how you will look after them. Expect questions about your breed/pet-owning knowledge, about your home life, the size of your house, your activity levels and how you will afford to look after your pet.
  • Puppies, kittens and rabbits should not be younger than 8 weeks old before leaving mum.
  • If a puppy is over 8 weeks old or kitten is over 9 weeks old it should have already been vaccinated – ask to see the certificate. This must clearly state the veterinary practice and where this was carried out. Be suspicious if the address of the veterinary practice is outside the UK
  • From April 2016 it will be a legal requirement for puppies to be microchipped before they leave the breeders home at 8 weeks old, so make sure you have all of these details and that you know how to change the paperwork to your name as the new owner.
  • Ask what will happen if your new pet is found to have a problem when you take it home. Will the breeder take the pet back?
  • If you are getting an older animal (over 4 months old) remember to ask why he or she is being rehomed. Ask about previous socialisation with people, children and animals as well as any history of fearful or aggressive behaviour.
  • Don’t be overwhelmed by the cuteness of the animals in the first litter or rescue centre you visit! If things don’t feel 100% right to you walk away and look somewhere else, the right pet is worth waiting for.
handling is important

Gentle handling is important from a very early age. Youngsters should be comfortable being handled by you when you visit

Cat specific checks
  • Handle the mother so you can get an idea of her temperament (it is not always possible but if you get the opportunity, meet the father too)
  • Ask if the parents have been regularly vaccinated and if they have been tested for Feline immunodeficiency virus and Feline Leukaemia before mating.
  • Have they been raised indoors or outside? Indoor raised animals are much happier with the day to day sounds of a busy household and the coming and going of people and other pets.
Dog specific checks
  • Spend some time handling and playing with the mother so you can get an idea of her temperament (it is not always possible but if you get the opportunity, meet the father too).
  • Ask about how the puppies will be and have been socialised and what experiences they will have had before they come home to you (will they have seen lots of people, travelled in a car, experienced household noises such as the washing machine and vacuum cleaner?).
  • Have they been raised indoors or outside? Indoor raised animals are much happier with the day to day sounds of a busy household and the coming and going of people and other pets.
Rabbit and small pets specific checks
  • Handle the mother so you can get an idea of her temperament.
  • Ask how much handling has been done to get the babies accustomed to it.
  • Ask if there has been any history of ill health in the parents/grandparents (particularly with dental disease in rabbits)
Pedigree Pet specific checks
  •  Ask about any genetic/hereditary problems in the breed and what tests have been done to ensure that the parents don’t have these. A good breeder will have no problems discussing these issues with you and will have had the appropriate tests done on the parents. Ask to see the certificates.
  • Ask how old mum is and what age the last few generations lived to – it sound like an odd question, but it is good to know that your new pet will live a long life. Deaths at a young age could indicate health problems in the family.
  • You will need to obtain a pedigree certificate and a contract of sale when you take your new pet home with you. This may also include restrictions on breeding and showing your new pet. Remember that unless the animal comes with a pedigree registration certificate it is not classed as a pedigree – so don’t get duped.
  • Check if there have been any restrictions placed on your new pet via their pedigree registrations. For example some breeders will place endorsements on certificates that may prevent you showing your new pet or breeding from and registering any subsequent litters.  If you want this animal purely as a pet you need not worry about these, but if you plan to show your pet in the future this is not something you want.     Dog registration endorsements / Cat registration endorsements
  • From April 2016 it will be a legal requirement for puppies to be microchipped before they leave the breeders home, so make sure you have all of these details and that you know how to change the paperwork to your name as the new owner.
  • A good dog breeder will ask you to spend time with adult dogs and cats of the same breed and chat to other owners so that you know exactly what you are letting yourself in for! This is particularly important if you have chosen one of the less commonly seen breeds.
mums and babies

ALWAYS see mum interacting with her litter

Puppy and Kitten Farms or Mills


These are commercial animal breeding facilities that are operated with an emphasis on profits above animal welfare and are often in substandard conditions regarding the well-being of animals in their care. The animals from these places are not looked after properly and will not have been bred for good health or good temperaments. Sometimes these animals are transported for huge distances (including outside the UK) to be sold by middle parties or pet shops to new owners.  Remember that NO responsible breeder would ever have their litter sold by a pet shop or anyone other than themselves.

  • Every animal purchased from an irresponsible breeder leaves a space for another to take its place.
  • The trade in pet farms, pet mills and pet shops is consumer led. If an animal is bought (even if the buyer is doing it to remove that youngster from a horrible place) it leaves a gap and the breeder will produce more.
  • Many animals become ill soon after purchase, some even die.
  • You are the consumer – make a wise choice – WALK AWAY and report it.

To Avoid Falling into the puppy/kitten farm trap

  • Always see the mother with her babies – if you can’t see the mother interacting with her offspring how do you know she is the mother? Don’t accept excuses about the mother being out for a walk or sick – if you don’t see the mother how do you know that she has a good temperament or is in good health?
  • Never let the breeder bring the animal to you – if they offer this how will you know anything about the environment they have grown up in or the temperament or health of the parents?
  • Don’t buy animals from pet shops or garden centres or anywhere that is offering more than 2 different breeds for sale – these places are middle men for the pet farming industry, the animals are usually from puppy farms and kitten farms or from people that breed solely for profit. You will have no idea about their history, temperament or if their parents suffered from any genetic disease or ill health. The animals will likely have been taken away from mum far too early and will have had little or no socialisation or handling.
  • Buy puppies and kittens that have been raised in a household environment rather than a kennel, shed or barn (these animals will not have been used to regular human contact or common household noises and events, which can make them fearful and nervous and can lead to behavioural problems)
  • Always make sure that the mother has been regularly vaccinated; diseases such as Parvovirus in puppies and Flu in kittens obtained from unscrupulous breeders, are often seen in veterinary practices and very young animals have tragically died, leaving new owners distraught and heartbroken. Ask to see vaccination certificates.
  • If the puppy or kitten is over 8 weeks old it should have already been vaccinated- ask to see the certificate. This must clearly state the veterinary practice and where this was carried out. Be suspicious if the address of the veterinary practice is outside the UK
  • If the seller informs you that the puppy has been brought in from another country it must have a pet passport or veterinary certificate and be more than 15 weeks of age
  • Don’t buy from any breeder that has more than two bitches or queens with litters.
  • Be suspicious if the ‘pedigree or purebred’ animal costs less than the average price normally seen in the UK.
  • Never pay in advance for an animal. A small deposit to reserve the animal once you have been to see it is fine, but paying upfront or in advance is usually a requirement of someone breeding to order and the illegal import trade.
Please  never buy an animal out of sympathy or because of the situation it is in. Any purchase of a ‘farmed’ animal will only encourage these horrible people to continue – the animal trade is definitely a consumer led supply and demand one. If you feel that the adults or youngsters are being neglected, have been illegally imported or have come from a puppy or kitten  farm/mill contact the RSPCA.

It is not acceptable to obtain puppies (or kittens) from “Puppy Farms” or other establishments who sell them on for these unscrupulous breeders. A national campaign called PupAid has been set up to raise awareness and stamp out unacceptable breeding practices.


For further advice you can telephone the surgery and speak to, or make an appointment with, one of our veterinary nurses on 0118 9574488

Think! Before you get that new pet

The prospect of getting a new pet can be very exciting and it is a wonderful feeling to be a proud owner. Anyone who has taken on a pet will know that within a matter of hours you are completely hooked, but there are a few things to think about before your commit to and bring home your new bundle of fun and cuteness.


piggy bank

This is not just the cost of actually buying the pet. Can you afford the costs necessary to give your chosen pet the correct care? The average annual costs of owning a pet can be quite high and have been estimated at £1000 – £1500 for a dog, around £1200 for a cat, £400 – £500 for a ferret, £500 for a rabbit and £400 for a guinea pig. (For cats and dogs that amounts to approximately £12000 – £20000 over a lifetime!) You will need to think about the costs of providing good quality food, bedding, housing for small animals, boarding kennels or pet sitters, routine vet bills for things such as parasite control and vaccinations, as well as pet insurance for accidents and illnesses.
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Lungworm Awareness Month

Lungworm Banner wordpress

Lungworms are a group of parasites that can affect both dogs and cats. Lungworms are much less common than parasites such as fleas, ticks and tapeworms, but the associated problems with a Lungworm infection may be more severe than with other more common parasites. Canine and Feline Lungworms cannot be transmitted to people.

In the past, Lungworms were only found in a few places in the UK, but over the last few years they have become much more widespread across the whole of Britain including the Thames Valley region. It is unclear exactly what has caused the spread of Lungworms (and other parasites) but increased movement of pets around the country, as well as an increase in wildlife in urban environments is thought to play a big part; it is also thought that the recent mild temperatures and rainy weather has helped the spread.

Lungworms infect dogs when they ingest the intermediate host which is a slug, snail, frog or other mollusc and cats when they ingest a rodent or bird that has previously ingested a slug, snail, frog or other mollusc carrying the Lungworm larvae.

Fortunately there are treatments available from your veterinary practice that are easily applied and will prevent this parasite from becoming a hazard to your pet.



This map shows the location of reported cases of Lungworm in the UK

Canine Lungworm

There are two types of Lungworm that commonly affect dogs in the UK, Angiostrongylus vasorum and Crenosoma vulpis.

Canine Lungworm Life Cycle

  • Slugs and snails eat the immature Lungworm larvae while feeding on the faeces of infected dogs or foxes.
  • The dog ingests the slugs or snails.
  • Once inside the dog, the larvae penetrate the dog’s intestinal wall and start to develop in the abdominal lymph nodes.
  • The larvae then migrate through the body.
      • The Angiostrongylus vasorum Lungworms enter the dog’s circulatory system and travel to the right ventricle of the heart and the pulmonary arteries of the lungs.
      • The Crenosoma vulpis Lungworms travel directly to the dog’s lungs.
  • Once they are in place the Lungworms start to mature; growing up to 2.5cm long.
  • The female Lungworms produce eggs that lodge in and develop in the capillaries of the lungs.
  • Larvae hatch from these eggs and move into the lung airspace. It is at this stage when the larvae can produce clinical signs such as coughing and breathing difficulties
  • They are then coughed up and swallowed to be passed out in the dog’s faeces, allowing the cycle to begin again.
N88.006 Novartis Parasite Lifecycles DAPS.indd

Canine Lungworm Life Cycle
(picture courtesy of Novartis)

Canine Lungworm Clinical Signs

The main difficulty with the diagnosis of Lungworm is that some dogs may not show any clinical signs at all. In the majority of healthy dogs that become infected the parasite runs through it’s life cycle, with the dog showing intermittent and non-specific signs such as lethargy, inappetence, weight loss, nasal discharge and occasional vomiting. These signs sometimes progress to coughing, difficulty breathing and reduced exercise tolerance.
In the worst cases the parasite can prevent blood from clotting properly so that a dog may cough up blood, have nose bleeds or any wounds it has may not stop bleeding. Lungworm can also affect the dog’s nervous system and cause lethargy, spinal pain, paralysis, fitting and can be fatal.

Is Your Dog At Risk?

All dogs are at risk of a Lungworm infection, but those most susceptible will be

  • Those who are known to eat slugs, snails, frogs etc (usually young, inquisitive dogs)
  • Dogs that eat grass; these dogs can accidentally ingest small slugs or snails
  • Dogs whose toys and bowls are left out in the garden. Some slugs and snails are so small they are often unknowingly consumed.

Lungworm at risk dogs horizontal

Feline Lungworm

The lungworm that commonly infects cats in the UK is called Aelurostrongylus abstrusus.

Feline Lungworm Life cycle

  • Adult feline lungworms, Aelurostrongylus abstrusus, measure up to 1cm in length and lay their eggs in the lung tissue or the walls of the blood vessels around the lungs.
  • The larvae released from the eggs then migrate up the trachea (air passage) and eventually reach the pharynx where they either swallowed into the digestive tract or coughed up onto the ground.
  • The larvae that were coughed out or are expelled in the cat’s faeces are eaten by slugs or snails in which they develop.
  • The slugs and snails may then be eaten by birds or rodents, which are in turn eaten by the cat and pass the parasite on so it can start its lifecycle again.
Feline Lungworm-1

Feline Lungworm Life cycle
(picture courtesy of LifeLearn)

Feline Lungworm Clinical Signs

Many cats never show signs of the infestation and some cats can develop a natural immunity to the Lungworm. After three or four months the lungworms are expelled from the cat’s body leaving the cat resistant to further infection, although whilst this immunity is developing the lungs of an affected cat can be literally riddled with worms, larvae and eggs which can have quite an impact on the cat’s health. 

When symptoms do occur, they can come on quite quickly and severely and the cat may be coughing, have difficulty breathing and be in poor general condition (similar to cat flu symptoms).

Is Your Cat at risk?

Feline Lungworm is mainly seen in cats who hunt birds and rodents.

Lungworm cat and bird

Diagnosis, Treatment And Prevention Of Lungworm

Lungworm Diagnosis

  • Symptoms – the vet may make a suspected diagnosis based on the symptoms of the dog or cat.
  • Blood Test – there is a blood test available for dogs that can tell us if the Angiostrongylus vasosum lungworm is present. Unfortunately blood tests have not been developed for the other lungworms yet.
  • Faecal test – the vet may request faecal samples from your pet to look for Lungworm larvae. However, because of the life cycle of the lungworm the larvae will not always be present in the animal’s faeces, even if the animal is infected.
  • X-ray – the vet may X-ray your pet’s chest to look for signs of Lungworm.
  • Bronchoscopy – A small camera can be passed down the throat to view the lungs and look for the presence of lungworm.

Lungworm Prevention

Fortunately Lungworm is preventable by the use of a prescription, spot-on treatment that is applied monthly and is available at your veterinary surgery. The spot on treatment also kills fleas and other intestinal worms, so it can replace your usual product if your pet is at risk.

Doing the following will also help reduce the risk of lungworm

  1. Scoop the poop. Lungworm larvae are passed out in dog faeces, so if we pick up after our pets we can help prevent the spread of these parasites.
  2. Pick up toys. Toy’s left outside overnight are exposed to slugs and snails. Pick up your dog’s toys at the end of each day and store them in a container or bring them inside.
  3. Don’t leave food and water bowls outside. Bowls left outside will be exposed to slugs and snails so it is a good idea to clean them and bring them inside.


Prevention is the key here and it is easy to achieve with a monthly spot on treatment available on prescription from your veterinary practice. Castle Vets offers this treatment as part of our Pet Health Club membership. If you think that your dog or cat is at risk please speak to your veterinary nurse who can advise you on preventative treatment.

Fortunately treatment is also available for Lungworm once it has been diagnosed but sadly, in rare cases of heavy infestation or associated complications, the cat or dog still may die from this parasitic infection.

Lungworm Website  Check out the Bayer website for news and information about Lungworm.

For more information about Lungworm or any aspect of your pet’s care, health and wellbeing please contact us at the surgery and we will be happy to help and give advice.